Manufacture of shoes



Oct. 2, 1934. G. H. NICHOLS MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Dec. 14, 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet l 1934- G. H. NICHOLS 1,975,474

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Dec. 14. 1931 2 Sheets-Sh eet 2 VENTLZ/F W Patented a. 2, 1934 7 1,975,414 MANUFACTURE OF SHOES George H. Nichols, Quincy, Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application December 14, 1931, Serial No. 580,844

46 Claims. (0]. 12-145) This invention relates to the'art of shoemaking and is disclosed herein by way of illustration with special reference to its applicability to the manufacture of shoes which have narrow shanks such, for example, as narrow-shank shoes the uppers of which are secured in lasted relation to insoles by cement. The invention also relates to shoes, to insoles and to methods of making insoles.

'10 Objects of the invention are to facilitate the manufacture of shoes having insoles with narrow shanks, particularly such shoes in which the insole has a relatively wide margin or feather over which the upper is worked into lasted posi- 15 tion, and to facilitate the manufacture of such shoes in which a cemented upper is worked into lasted position over the insole and temporarily secured to a lip of the insole by temporary fastenings while the cement is setting, such fastenings being later removed. Further objects of the invention are to provide an improved narrow shank shoe, an improved insole-adapted for such a shoe and an improved method by the practice of which the making of such an insole may be 2 facilitated.

In various of its aspects, however, the invention is not necessarily limited to use in the manufacture of narrow shank shoes or cement lasted shoes.

In accordance with another of its objects, the invention contemplates retaining all the advantages of the use in manufacture of shoes of the invention disclosed in application for Letters Patent of the United States Serial No. 576,342, filed November 20, 1931, in the name of George Goddu, while facilitating the manufacture of shoes by the practice of that invention when the insoles of such shoes are very narrow at the shank.

A feature of the invention consists in an insole having a single lip to which both sides of an upper are secured in. lasted position. Preferably and as illustrated, the single lip is located centrally with respect to the shank portion of an insole and is in upstanding relation to the surface of that portion of the shank portion of the insole. Also, as illustrated, the single lip may be provided only at the forward or narrowest portion of the shank while at the rear part of the shank portion of the insole near the breast lin, where the insole wider, a lip at each side may be provided. In that case, the lips at the rear of the single lip will preferably diverge rearwardly toward the breast line and converge forwardly sub- 55 stantially to meet the single lip.

Preferably the margin of the insole is reduced in thickness an amount equal to the thickness of the upper materials, and lips are provided at the forepart which lie substantially fiat against the surface of the insole, the lips at the shank portion of the insole being in upstanding relation to the surface of the insole.

In one of its method aspects the invention contemplates a method of making insoles in the practice of which an insole is channeled on one side all the way between the toe and the breast line, while on the other side the channeling is omitted along the narrowest portion of the shank, the rear part of the shank beingchanneled on that side where the width of the insole is suificient to provide material for a,second channel without interference with the first channel, and the insole being channeled on that side along the forepart. Advantageously, the, two channels along the rear part of the shank diverge toward the heel-seat-portion of the insole from the'single channel. Preferably, the channeling is begun on that side of the insole which will be at the outer side of the foot, the channeling starting at the breast line and being continued along the shank and around the forepart to the ball line on the opposite side of the insole, where, in an insole having a very narrow shank; the channeling out will, as herein illustrated, substantially meet the channeling cut on the outer side of the insole. As herein illustrated, the channeling operation is discontinued at this point and is resumed at a point nearer the breast line.

Preferably, the channeling cuts are made through the edge face of the insole substantially parallel to its outer face to form flaps the thickness of each of which is substantially equivalent to the thickness of the upper materials. As illustrated, a portion of each of the flaps thus formed is removed, and the remaining portions of. the flaps are turned inwardly, substantially fiat against the insole along the forepart and into an upright position in the shank portion of the insole, the flaps forming lips to which the upper may be secured in lasted position. Advantageously, the flap portion at the end of the toe between the two forepart flaps is out off, so that when those flaps are turned inwardly to form lips at the two sides of the insole, there will be no lip continuity round the toe, the lip at one side of the forepart being. separate from and independent of the lip on the other side of the forepart.

It will be observed that, for convenience, the lip construction around the forepart is frequently of the shoe.

referred to as comprising two lips, although, as herein exemplified, the two lips may, in fact, result from a flap formed by a single channeling, which channeling may be continuous around the forepart. Likewise, the expression two lips around the forepart must be understood to comprehend just as much a continuous lip construction around the forepart as to apply to the illustrated construction, in which a lipped portion at the toe is cut away.

The unchanneled portion at one side of the shank is preferably reduced in thickness as by beveling from the base of the single lip to the edge face of the insole, the amount removed at the edge face corresponding to the thickness of the channel lip formed on the opposite side of the insole.

Considered in another aspect the invention contemplates working an upper into lasted position at one side of a shoe and securing the upper to a single lip by metallic fastenings, for example by staples, driven through the upper and lip and clinched on the lip, and then working the upper at the opposite side of the shoe into lasted position and securing it to the same lip by metallic fastenings, for example by staples, which, as illustrated, pass through the lasted upper, the lip and the previously lasted upper on the opposite side Thus the upper abuts against opposite sides of the single lip. Preferably, cement is applied to the marginal portions of the upper materials and to the margin of the insole prior to the lasting operation, and, after the cement has set, the single lip and the portions of upper which have been stapled to it. are trimmed ofi flush with the overlasted portion of the upper. As above stated, the illustrated single lip is provided only at the narrowest portion of the shank. If two diverging lips are provided at the rear part of the shank portion of the insole, the lasting of the upper in that part of the shoe may be done as usual by working the upper over the margin of the insole into lasted position and securing it to the lip on one side of the shoe, and then performing at the other side of the shoe a similar operation of working over and securing the upper to the independent lip on that side of the shoe.

These and other characteristic features and objects of the invention will appear more fully from the following detailed description when read in connection with the accompanying drawings.

In the drawings, Fig. 1 is a perspective view of an insole prepared in accordance with the present invention:

Fig. 2 is a bottom view of a shoe upper and insole assembled on the last with the upper in 'rnachine, the shoe being shown in section, said views illustrating the steps of lasting the first side of the shank;

Fig. 5 is a similar view illustrating the lasting of the upper at the second side of the shank;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of a shoe lasted in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of a shoe after the trimming operation has been performed;

Fig. 8 is a perspective view of a shoe and outsole ready to be attached to each other;

Fig. 9 is a transverse section of the shank portion of the shoe after attachment of the sole; and

Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. 9 showing a modification.

In the illustrated method of making shoes in which the upper is worked over the margin of an outer face corresponding substantially to the thickness of the upper materials which are to be employed in making the shoe, toform a flap 22 and beneath the fiapa feather portion 24. The feather portion 24 is preferably approximately half an inch wide in order to provide a width of overlasted upper adequate either to provide sufiicient surface for secure attachment thereto of an outsc-le by means of pyroxylin cement or for anchoring the stitches in case the outsole is attached by through-and-through stitching. At the shank the width of the feather will be approximately half the width of the insole at its narrowest portion and the base of the flap 22 will be centrally located with respect to this portion of the shank.

A substantial part, for example half, of the fiap '22 thus formed is preferably trimmed ofi simultaneously with the chaneling operation. The channeling operation is preferably begun at a point adjacent to the breast line, for example the point 26, on that side of the insole which will be at the outer side of the foot." The channeling is continued along that side of the shank portion, along the forepart, about the toe, and along the other side of the insole as far as the ball line where, due to the narrowness of the shank, the channeling cut substantially meets the channel previously made, for example the point 28. At this point the channeling operation is discontinued and is recommenced at a point adjacent to the heel-seat, for example the point 30, where the sole is wider and there is sufficient stock to provide for another flap 32 independent of the fiap 22 first formed.

Preferably the flap at the extreme end of the toe is snipped off so that the flap about the toe is discontinuous. Thus an independent fiap 36 is formed on the inner side of the forepart. The

insole is then tempered and the flap 22 turned up into an upright position from the point 26 to a point 34 adjacent to the ball line, from which point on the fiap 22 is preferably turned inward ly flat against the bottom of the insole. The independent flap 36 at the other side of the forepart of the insole is also turned inwardly against the body of the insole and the independent fiap 32 adjacent to the heel-seat is turned into an upright position. The fiap 32 and the rear portion of the flap 22 preferably diverge toward the breast line and each fiap will of course recede outwardly with respect to the longitudinal median line or center line of the shank. In order to impart a greater stiffness to the flaps 22, 32 and 36, so that they will more firmly resist the outward pull of the overlasted upper which is secured to them,-

they may be treated with a solution of shellac, preferably containing acetone, to increase the penetration of the shellac. Of course, the outer flaps 22, 32 and 36,- after they have been turned inwardly or into upright positions and. set or stiffened in that position constitute what may more properly-be called lips to which the everworked upper may be secured in lasted position and will be referred to as lips hereinafter.

An insole prepared in the manner described is fastened to the bottom of the last, for example by tacks 38, and an upper 40 assembled thereon upper.

and pulled over, the pulling-over tacks being indicated by the numeral 42. At the rear part of the upper 40 is a quarter lining 44 between which and the upper is located a counter 46. A vamp lining 48 is also provided and preferably a doubler 50 between the vamp lining and the Theupper 40, the wings of the counter 46 and the lining 44 are preferably adjusted into proper relation to each other and to the last and secured by a tack 52 at each side of the shoe driven through the upper, counter flange, lining and insole in a location at the rear of the breast line.

. Cement, which preferably is water-dispersed rubber cement, is now applied to the opposed faces of the marginal portions of the upper materials and to the feather portion 24 of the insole, the procedure indicated in the Goddu ap plication referred to above being preferably followed. After the application of cement to both sides of the shoe, the shoe is ready for immediate lasting which preferably is performed with the aid of a side lasting machine of the type disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,796,451, granted March 17, 1931, upon the application of George Goddu. The lasting is preferably begun onthat side of the shoe which is on the outer side of the foot, and preferably the lasting-machine operator spindles the last and seizes the upper with his hand pincers at a point just back of the ball on the inner side of the shoe and draws the upper over the insole substantially into its lasted position, and, while holding it against the side of the last with his fingers, presents it to the lasting machine whereupon an anvil of the machine is engaged with one side of the single, centrally located upstanding lip 22 at the narrowest portion of the shank of the insole and a gripper 62 seizes the upper materials and works them upwardly and inwardly over the margin 24 of the insole. A nozzle 64 then wipes the tensioned upper over the margin of the insole and against the face of the lip 22 and a staple 66 is inserted through the upper materials and the lip and clinched against the face of the anvil 60. Preferably various portions of the upper at the shank portion of the shoe will be worked over the insole and secured in lasted position to the lip 22, and the side lasting of the shoe will be continued by working over and securing portions of the upper at the forepart to the inturned portion of the lip 22, which of course is raised by the anvil 60 and at the rear of the shank the upper .40, counter 46, and quarter lining 44 will be worked over the margin of the insole and secured to the rear portionof the lip 22, which recedes outwardly from the center line of the insole "and is in diverging relation to the independent lip 32. When the side lasting upon the first side of the shoe has been completed, the shoe is preferably again spindled and the upper upon the opposite side of the shank worked over the insole with pincers and.

held against the last by the operators fingers. The shoe is then presented to the machine and the opposite side of the upper at the shank portion worked into lasted position over the margin of the insole and against the opposite side of the single lip 22 where it is secured by staples driven through the upper materials at that side of the shoe through the lip 22, and through the previously lasted upper materials at the opposite side of the shoe, as indicated' in Fig. 5. This operation will be continued as required at the narrowest portion of the shank, and at the forepart 'worked into lasted position by means of end embracing wipers and the upper at the toe of the shoe after application of cement such as pyroxylin ce'inent to the upper materials and to the feather of the insole may, as illustrated, be held in lasted position by atemporary binder '70 which is pressed upon the shoe upper by means of a lever 72 and secured to the last by a tack 74, all as more fully disclosed intthe Goddu application referred to above. The shoewill now have the appearance illustrated in Fig. 6.

After the cement employed for securing the upper in lasted position has set, the binder '70 may be removed and the shoe trimmed. The trimming operation may be performed on a turn shoe trimming machine of the type disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 429,065, granted May 27, 1890 to Schaadt et al. In this operation the upstanding portion of the upper which is secured to the lips 22, 32 and 36,by staples is trimmed oif flush with that portion of the upper which overlies the margin of the insole, and, of course, at the same time the lips and the staples are removed.

to trimmed off, the trimming being discontinued at the point where the lip 32 stops adjacent to the single lip 22. Then the independent lip 36,

with the ball portion of the upper secured therei to, is trimmed off, the trimming knife running out at the toe ,where the lips 36 and 22 are discontinuous. Then, beginning at the toe end, the lip 22 and the upper secured thereto will be trimmed off toward the ball line. Then, at the narrowest portion of the shank, both sides of the upper and the single. lip 22 between them will be trimmed off at the same time and the trimming continued along the divergent portion of the lip 22 to the breast line. In trimming a right shoe, the operation will be similar but in that case the rear divergent portion of the lip 22 and the attached upper will be first trimmed.

and its attached upper willbe trimmed toward the breast line. The shoe now presents the condition shown in Fig. '7 in which the overlasted portion 80 of the upper 40 at the forepart is flush with the bottom of the insole 20, and at the narrowest portion of the shank the edges of the two sides of the upper are in contact except for the presence of a portion of the lip 22 between them. At the rear portion of the shank the upper and lips have been trimmed flush with the overlasted portion of the upper. so that the entire shoe bottom forward of the breast line is in exsole cellent condition for the performance of the upper roughing operation, which in case the outsole is to be cement attached is next performed.

A steel shank stifiener 82 maybe attached to the shoe bottom and, after the application of cement to the roughened portion of the overlasted upper, the shoe is ready for the reception ofthe outsole. The sole to be attached may, as usual, have a width at the shank portion substantially equal to or a little greater than the width of the insole and may be attached either by cement, such as pyroxylin cement, or by throughand-through stitches, for example lockstitches.

However, the shoe as represented in Fig. 7 is particularly adapted for the reception of an outsole having What is known as a fiddle shank, that is, an outsole which is very narrow at the narrowest portion where it may have a width substantially less than that of the insole and may be no more than inch wide. Such an outsole is represented in Fig. 8 at 84. The attachment of such an outsole to the lasted shoe of Fig. '7 by cement or stitches presents no difficulty since the edges of the upper substantially meet at the narrowest portion of the shank and there is ample margin of upper at both sides of the narrowest portion of the shank to receive the attaching cement or the through-andthrough stitches.

The construction of the shoe at the narrowest portion of the shank after the attachment thereof of a fiddle shank outsole is illustrated in Fig. 9. The illustrated shoe is to have a high Louis heel attached thereto and, after the outsole 84 shown in Fig. 8 is attached, the heel-seat.- portion of the outsole is heel-seat fitted, the heel attached and its breast covered by a flap 86 split from the rear portion of the outsole, the shoe being finished in the usual manner. Under some conditions it may be preferable to provide inside the shoe a shank piece 88 to which is attached a steel stiffener or shank 90 instead'of providing the steel shank 82 between the outsole and the insole. This construction is illustrated in Fig. 10. In case the outsole is cement attached the shank piece 88 and shank 90 may be placed upon the last before the insole is attached thereto and in work where the outsole is attached to the over lasted upper by through-and-through stitches the insertion of the shank piece 88 and shank 90 may be deferred till after attachment of the outsole.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. An insole for shoes having at its forepart two lips which converge in the vicinity of the ball line and having in its shank portion a single centrallylocated lip.

2. An insole for shoes having in its shank portion a single centrally located lip and at the forepart lips which converge in the vicinity of the ball line and substantially meet the centrally located lip.

3. An insole for shoes having in a part only of its shank portion a single lip and having at each end of the single lip diverging lips.

4. An insole for shoes having at each side of the forepart a lip, said lips substantially meeting in the vicinity of the ball line, and having at the narrowest portion of its shank a single centrally located lip.

5. An insole for shoes, having at the forward portion of the shank a single lip and at the rear portion of the shank two lips.

6. An insole for shoes, having at the forward portion of the shank a single upstanding lip and at the rear portion of the shank two,rearwardly diverging lips.

7. An insole for shoes, having at the forward portion of the shank a single, upstanding, centrally located lip and at the rear portion of the shank two rearwardly diverging lips.

8. An insole for shoes having a lip along each side of its forepart, said lips extending toward 1 each other at the rear of the ball line until they substantially meet, and having a single lip at the shank extending from the junction of the forepart lips for a substantial distance rearwardly.

9. An insole for shoes having a lip extending substantially about the periphery of its forepart,"

said lip extending inwardly substantially flat against the surface of the insole, the rear ends of said lip substantially meeting, and a single lip at the central portion of the shank extending from the ends of the forepart lip for a substantial distance rearwardly.

10. An insole for shoes, having a lip along each side of its forepart, said lips extending inwardly substantially fiat against the surface of the insole, and a single upstanding lip at the central portion of the shank from the ball line for a substantial distance rearwardly.

11. An insole for shoes, having a continuous lip extending inwardly substantially flat against the surface of the insole from the end of the toe to the ball line, upstanding at the central portion of the shank from the ball line for a substantial distance rearwardly, and receding outwardly from the center line of the insole from the rear portion of the shank to the breast line.

12. An insole for shoes, having a continuous lip extending from the toe end to the breast line, said lip being located substantially centrally of the narrowest portion of the shank, an independent lip extending from the toe end to the ball line on the opposite side of the insole, and an independent lip extending from the breast line forward and terminating adjacent to the narrowest portion of the shank.

13. An insole for shoes, having a continuous lip extending from the toe end to the breast line, said lip at the narrowest portion of the shank being substantially centrally located with respect to the shank, and said lip adjacent to the breast line diverging outwardly with respect to the longitudinal median line of the shank, and

an independent lip adjacent to the breast line.

which lip converges forwardly with respect to the rear portion of said first-mentioned lip.

14. An insole for shoes, having about its forepart a lip extending inwardly substantially fiat against the surface of the insole and a single upstanding lip at the central portion of the shank from the ball line for a substantial distance rearwardly and diverging upstanding lips from said single lip to the breast line.

15. An insole for shoes, having at its forepart a lip at each side, each lip extending inwardly substantially fiat against the surface of the insole and a single upstanding lip at the central portion of the shank from the ball line for a substantial distance rearwardly and upstanding lips from said single lip to the breast line.

16. That improvement in methods of making insoles which consists in channeling an insole along one side and between the toe and the ball line on the other side, omitting the channeling operation at the narrowest portion of the shank its on the second side of the insole, and resuming the channeling operation at the rear portion of the shank.

17. That improvement in methods of making insoles which consists in channeling an insole along one side and about the toe to the ball line, discontinuing the channeling operation at the narrowest portion of the shank, and resuming the channeling operation at the rear portion of the shank.

18. That improvement in methods of making insoles which consists in channeling an insole along that side which is to be on the outer side of the foot from the breast line to the toe, then along the opposite side to the ball line, discontinuing the channel from the ball line to the rear portion of the shank, and then resuming the channeling operation atthe rear portion of the shank.

19. That improvement in methods of making insoles which consists in channeling an insole from its edge face inwardly along that side of the shoe which is to be on the outer side of the foot from the breast line to the toe, then channeling the insole along the opposite side to the ball line, discontinuing the channeling operation from the ball line to the central portion of the shank, resuming the channeling operation at the rear portion of the shank, turning the flap formed by the channeling operation inwardly at the forepart into a position substantially fiat against the. insole, and turning the remaining flaps into an upright position.

' 20. That improvement in methods of making insoles which consists in channeling an insole from its edge face inwardly to form a flap and simultaneously trimming off the outer portion of the flap along that side of the shoe which is to be on the outer side of the foot from the breast line to the toe, continuing the channeling and trimming operation along the opposite side of the insole to the ball, discontinuing the channeling and trimming operation from the ball line to the rear portion of the shank, and resuming the channeling and trimming operation at the rear portion of the shank.

21. That improvement in methods of making insoles which consists in channeling an insole .from its edge face inwardly to form a flap and simultaneously trimming off the outer portion of the flap along that side of.the shoe which is .to be on the outer side of the foot from the breast line to the toe, continuing the-channeling and trimming operation along the opposite side oi? the insole to the ball, discontinuing the channeling and trimming operation from the ball line to the rear portion of the shank, resuming the channeling and trimming operation at the rear portion of the shank, and turning .the flap in-i wardly of the insole to form a lip to which the upper may be secured in lasting.

22. That improvement in methods of making insoles which consists in channeling an insole from its edge face inwardly to form a wide feather portion and a flap the thickness of which is substantially equivalent to the thickness of the upper materials, said channeling operation being performed first along that side of the shoe which is to be on the outer side of the foot from the breast line to the toe and then along the opposite side of the insole to the ball line, discontinuing the channeling operation from the ball line to the rear portion of the shank, re-

suming the channeling operation at the rear portion of the shank to the ball line, reducing the width of the flaps thus formed, and turning the flaps at the forepart inwardly substantially fiat against the surface of the insole and at the shank portion turning the flaps into an upright position.

23. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and an insole having a single upstand:

ing lip, working one side of the upper over the insole into lasted position and securing it to the lip, and then working the upper at the other side of the shoe over the insole and securing it in lasted position to the same lip.

24. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and an insole having a single lip at a portion of the shank, working portions of the-,

lasted .position and securing it to the lip by staples driven through the upper and lip and clinched on the lip, then working the upper over the insole at the opposite side of the shoe and stapling it in lasted position to the lip.

26. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and an insole having a single lip at a .portion of the shank, working portions of the upper at one side of the shank over the insole.

and securing them by metallic fastenings to the lip, then working portions of the upper at the other side of the shoe ,over the insole and securing them in lasted position to the same lip by metallic fastenings, said iastenings passing through the lip and the upper at both sides of the lip. I

27. 'I'hatimprovement in methods of making shoes which consists in assemblingupon a last an upper and an insole having a single upstanding lip, working one side of the upper over the insole into lasted position and securing it to the lip by staples driven through the upper and lip and clinched on the lip, then working the upper over the insole at the opposite side of the shoe and stapling it in lasted position to the lip.

, lasted position and securing it to the lip by staples driven through the upper and lip and clinched on the lip, then working the upper over the insole at the opposite side of the shoe and stapling it in lasted position to the lip and to the previously lasted upper.

29. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and an insole having a single lip integral therewith, working one side of the upper over the insole into lasted position and securing it to the lip by staples driven through the upper and lip and clinched on the lip, then working the upper over the insole at the opposite side of the shoe and stapling it in lasted position to the lip and to the previously lasted upper, the staples being clinched on the surface of the upper.

30. That improvement in methods of making upper and an insole having a single centrally disposed lip, working one side of the upper over the insole into lasted position and securing it to the lip by staples driven through the upper and lip and clinched on the lip, then working the upper over the insole at the opposite side of the shoe and stapling it in lasted position to the lip and to the previously lasted upper.

31. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inassembling upon a last an upper and an insole having a single centrally disposed lip, working one side of the upper over the insole into lasted position and securing it to the lip by staples drivenrthrough the upper and lip and clinchedon the lip, then working the upper over the insole at the opposite side of the shoe and stapling it in lasted position to the lip and to the previously lasted upper, the'staples being clinched on the surface of the upper.

32. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assemblingiupon as last an upper and an insole having a single lip, working one side of the upper over the insole into lasted position and securing it to the lip, then working the upper at the other side of the shoe over the insole and securing it in lasted position to the same lip, and then trimming simultaneously the single lip and both sides of the upper. 77

33. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and an: insole having a single lip, ap-

plying cement to the upper materials and to the insole, working one side of the upper over the insole into lasted position and securing it to the lip, then working the upper at the other side of the shoe: over the insole and securing it in lasted position to the same lip, and, after the cement has set,-trimming simultaneouly the single lip and both sides of the upper.

34. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an 11113138! and an insole having a single lip at a portion of the shank, applying cement to the marginal portions of thelupper materials and of the insole, working portions of the upper at one side of the shank over the insole and securing them in lasted position by metallic fastenings to the lip, working portions of the upper at the other side of the shoe over the insole and securing them in lasted position to the same lip by metallic fastenings, and, after the cement has set, trimming off the lip, portions of the upperand the fastenings.

35. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and an insole having a single lip at its shank portion, applying cement to the marginal portions of the upper and to the insole, working thegupper over the bottom of the insole and securing it in lasted position at the forepart of the shoe, working the upper::at each side of the shoe over the insole at the shank portion of the shoe and securing itrin lasted position'to the single lip, and, after the cement has set, trimming the lip and the upper at both sides of the shoe flush with the overlasted portion of the upper and attaching to the overlasted upper an outsole of substantially less width than the insole at the shank.

36. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and an insole having a single lip, worklasted position to the opposite side of the lip, and then trimming off the lip and both sides of the upper simultaneously.

37. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and an insole having a single lip, applying cement to the marginal portions of the upper materials and insole, working one side of the upper over the insole into lasted position'and securing it in lasted position to the lip, working the upper over the insole at the opposite side of the shoe and securing it in lasted position to the oppositeside of the lip, and, after the cement has'set, trimming on the lip and part of the upper at both sides of the lip in a plane substantially parallel to the shoe bottom."

38. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and an insole having a single lip, working one side of thenpper over the insole into lasted position and inserting staples through the upper and lip and clinching them on the lip, working the upper over the insole at the opposite side of the shoe and inserting staples to hold the upper in lasted position to the opposite side of the lip, and then trimming ofi the lip and both sides of the upper simultaneously.

39. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and an insole having a single lip, applying cement to the marginal portions of the upper materials and insole, working one side of the upper over the insole into lasted position and inserting staples through the upper and lip, workthe upper over the insole at the opposite side of the shoe and inserting staples to hold it in lasted position to the opposite side of'the lip,*and, after the cement has set, trimming oif the lip and both sides of the upper between the staples and the shoe bottom.

40. That improvement in methods of mamng shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and an insole having a single lip at a portion of the shank, applying cement to the marginal portions of the upper materials and of the insole, working portions of the upper at one side'nf the shank over the insole and inserting staples to secure them in lasted position to the lip;'working portions of the upper at the other side of the shoe over the insole and inserting staples to secure them in lasted position to the same lip, and, after the cement has set, trimming off the lip, portions of the upper and the staples.

41. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and an insole having lips along opposite sides of its forepart and a single lip at the shank, applying cement to the marginal portions of the upper and the insole, working the upper over the insole into-lasted position and securing it by staples to the lips at the sides of theforepart, working the upper at both sides of the shoe over the insole'and securing itagainst opposite faces of the single lip by staples driven through the upper and the lip', and, after' the cement has lip at the other side of the forepart and at the shank continuously whereby at the shank both sides of the upper and the single lip are trimmed simultaneously.

42. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and an insole having lips along opposite sides of its forepart, a singlelipat the narrowest portion of its shank and diverging lips at the rear portion of its shank, applying cement to the marginal portions of the upper and the insole, working the upper over the insole into lasted position and securing it by staples to the forepart lips, working the upper at both sides of the shoe over the insole and securing it against opposite faces of the single lip by staples driven through the upper and the lip, working the upper at each side of the rear portion of the shank over the insole and securing it to the diverging lips by staples driven through the upper and lip, and, after the cement has set, trimming first one of the divergent lips and the upper attached thereto, then trimming the upper and lip at one side of the forepart, and then trimming the upper and lip continuously from' the toe end to the breast line including the narrowest portion of the shank where both sides of the upper and the single lip are trimmed simultaneously.

43. A narrow shank shoe having an upper, a narrow shank insole, and an outsole having a shank at its narrowest portion narrower than the insole, the upper at the shank being lasted over the insole so that the opposite edges of the upper substantially meet, and the outsole being secured directly to the overlasted portion of the upper.

44. A narrow shank shoe having an upper, an insole, and an outsole, the upper in the narrowest portion of the shank extending over the insole, the edges of the upper substantially meeting in the center of the shank, the upper materials being adhesively secured to the insole, and the outsole engaging the overlasted portion of the upper and being secured directly to the upper.

45. A narrow shank shoe having an upper, a narrow shank insole, and an outsole having a shank at its narrowest portion narrower than the insole, the upper at the shank being lasted over the insole so that the opposite edges of the upper substantially meet along the median line of the shank portion of the insole, and the outsole being adhesively secured directly to the overlasted portion of the upper.

46. A narrow shank shoe having an upper, an

insole, and an outsole, the upper in the narrowest GEORGE H. NICHOLS. 

